When can roses be opened after winter: at what temperature, timing for regions

Naturally, the first thing to do for roses in spring is to start removing their winter shelter in a timely manner. This procedure is important and exciting, it is not for nothing that many growers approach it with such trepidation.

Next, you will find out when you can open roses after winter, at what temperature and how it is best to do it so that the royal plants quickly recover and grow.

When to open roses after winter: basic guidelines and approximate dates

It is necessary to remove the shelter from roses after winter at the right time, and it is better to do this not immediately, but gradually.

• If opened completely too early, frost can damage buds and young leaves that have already hatched, and the roses themselves can get sunburn. the soil is still frozen and the roots cannot yet absorb moisture.

Rose bushes are not afraid of short-term drops in temperature: even roses with sprouts tolerate drops to -4, and many varieties even to -7.

• If you do not remove the shelter in time, then roses can simply blow off under it (from high humidity) and get infectious burns (stem cancer of roses), and this is even more dangerous than freezing of shoots.

However, if you made the right shelter ("air-dry", that is, for example, with a spunbond), especially with the onset of heat, you opened the ends for airing, then nothing will vomit you and no diseases inside the shelter will multiply.

In general, even with closed ends under the spunbond with roses, everything will be in order (since the material is "breathable"). It's another matter if you covered the roses with foil ... here you need to open it as early as possible.

Therefore, there is no need to rush and rather remove the shelter from the roses, but you should not overexpose. Everything has its time.

The main indicator that it's time to open roses is snow melt and soil thawing.

As for the temperature, you can open roses with the onset of stable positive temperatures (+3 .. + 5 and above), in fact, otherwise the soil simply will not thaw and the snow will not melt.

If you still have snow, then it is too early to think about opening them. Most likely, you won't be able to get to the dacha either.

Disclosure stages

First of all, you need to carefully monitor the weather conditions of the current year and, depending on the type of shelter, open roses in time:

• As soon as the snow starts to melt, you should slightly open the ends of the shelter (make "air vents" or cuts on the spanbond) so that air begins to flow inside and the bushes begin to be well ventilated.

Better to start by opening the ends on one side of the shelter.

Roses should be opened gradually, so as not to shock the plants (the scorching sun can simply dry them out).

• But after the snow has completely melted and a stable positive temperature has been established, you can fully open your rose garden. Moreover, it is better to do this in cloudy weather, so that the shoots do not receive sunburn, or immediately shade with something (for example, with the same spruce branches or a special shading net).

Interesting! Many growers completely remove the shelter from roses when tulips begin to bloom, more precisely, at the moment before their flowering begins.

If you spud roses, then they should begin to be dug out at about the same time (after the soil has completely thawed).

Terms in regions

Thus, if we talk about the approximate dates when you need to start opening roses, we can name the following (depending on the climatic features of the region):

• In the southern regions - from the second half of March to early April (for example, in 2020, in Volgograd, many opened roses in early March).
• In the Middle Lane (Moscow region), roses are usually opened in the second half of April (in 2020 it could have been opened a little in mid-March, but fully opened not earlier than April).
• In the Urals and Siberia - in late April and early May.
• In the North-West (Leningrad Region) - in early May.

What to do if the weather is unstable, but spring is very warm (like in 2020)

This year (2020) there was an abnormally warm winter, and as a result, a warm spring came early. Because of this, already in March, even in relatively cool regions, roses began to wake up (their buds began to swell).

However, in March it is still too early to open roses in the Central region (Moscow region).

The fact is that, warming may be temporary and night frosts simply will damage already hatched buds and young leaves (of course, new buds will grow from dormant buds later, but this will noticeably weaken the plant).

Therefore, if March in your area is abnormally warm (similar to a typical April), then it is better first, open the ends of the shelter (make "air") or remove part of the shelter (for example, one layer of spunbond).

Moreover, if it is often very windy in your climatic zone (frequent northerly winds), besides, the weather is borderline (during the day - plus, at night - about zero or a slight minus), then it is better to wait for the establishment of more stable and warm weather. Maximum in the afternoon in sunny weather can be opened from one side. If it is not windy at all, then you can open the ends from both sides.

However! If your rose garden is in a country house, where you visit only on weekends, then leaving it open even for a week is very dangerous. Roses may turn black (sunburn).

The rose garden should be fully opened only with a stable plus in April (closer to the middle).

What care is required for roses after opening: assessment of the condition after wintering

After you begin to partially remove the cover from your roses, you will need to carefully examine your rose garden and evaluate how it got through the winter, and then spend some activities for spring care and restoration of roses after winter.

Note! Top dressing, watering is done after the full disclosure of the bushes. The fact is that the root system begins to work and assimilate food only after the soil has warmed up.

And here process and cut roses can be still in the airing stagewhen you just opened the ends of the shelter.

• So, after expansion, you may notice that bush base covered white mold.

However, you should not be afraid. Most likely it is snow mold, which will quickly disappear in the bright sun without your intervention.

• It's really worth worrying if you find gray fluffy mold.

This is the so-called gray rot, the signs of which are:

• shoots of bushes from the side of the upper cut rapidly turn brown from top to bottom and die;
• at high humidity, the shoots are covered with a fluffy, smoky-gray bloom, and areas of tissue turn brown.

Note! In this case, you need promptly cut roses to healthy tissues (carry out sanitary pruning).

• You can also notice on the shoots frost (longitudinal ruptures of the crust), which occur in the winter-spring period, when there are frequent temperature changes.

Important! If there are not very many gaps, then the escape can be left, and the cracks themselves can be covered with Rannet.

It is a different matter if the entire bark in the frost holes and / or the tissues around the gap are brown. This is a sure sign that an infection has gotten inside, and such a branch should be cut out, because it will dry up and die over time anyway.

Frostbites are often confused with infectious burns.

• Another evidence of not very successful wintering is infectious burn (stem cancer)... In this case, you can see that part of the bark is damaged (she kind of peels off) and has red-brown color.

An infectious burn actively develops in conditions of high humidity and high temperature under a shelter (i.e., with poor ventilation). That is why it is recommended to open shelters in a timely manner for ventilation.

What to do?

This branch is most often recommended trim to healthy wood or grafting siteif there is no living part left.

Although, if the shoot is not completely ringed, then, most likely, it will not dry out and this season will last. And in the spring of next year it will be possible to cut it if it develops poorly.

You can also often notice that the burn is going on, but only in specks. Such an escape can certainly be left (the spots will then simply disappear, as if they did not exist).

AND be sure to treat with a copper-containing fungicide (same copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, Hom or Oxyhom)

And still, the rose is a tenacious plant and usually recovers well. So don't worry! Do what you can and hope for the best!

Advice! ABOUT other important spring care activities that need to be done with roses in the spring, after they open, read more in this separate article.