Pruning pears in spring: schemes and rules

Many gardeners prefer not to prune the pear, since under other favorable conditions the pear tree often forms an acceptable crown by itself, which makes it possible to get a completely normal harvest.

However, if you want to get the maximum from a fruit tree, to extend its life, then you should periodically carry out timely pruning of the pear, which, as a rule, is recommended to be carried out precisely in the spring.

Why prune a pear: the purpose and objectives of pruning

So, the main and final goal of pruning a pear (like any other plant) is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as to take care of the health of the tree itself (so that it bears fruit as long as possible).

Thus, by pruning a pear, you solve the following tasks aimed at achieving the above goal:

• improved access to sunlight;
• ensuring optimal ventilation inside the crown;
• disease prevention.

In other words, pear pruning is carried out in order to:

• to form a tree correctly so that it has a comfortable crown and gives stable yields;

Also, thanks to the formation of the correct crown by cutting it behind the tree, it becomes easy to care for, and the most important thing - harvest.

• adjust the growth of the tree, i.e. increase or decrease;
• eliminate the frequency of fruiting (so that a situation does not arise when the plant bears fruit for one year, but not for the next);
• improve the quality of the fruits (after correct pruning, the fruits become larger and tastier).

Optimal timing of pruning pears in spring

Spring pruning of pears must be done before the juice begins to move in the shoots (i.e. before bud break).

Controversial! At the same time, some gardeners advise to carry out the procedure when sub-zero temperatures are still confidently holding (but not lower than -10 degrees), while others recommend that the air temperature, on the contrary, be positive (about +5). In any case, the duration of the pruning period is before bud break.

Of course, it is quite difficult to indicate the exact dates: spring in different regions, depending on the climate, begins at different times. The main thing is to be in time before the sap flow begins.

However, one can call approximate terms... So, pruning of pears in the spring in the Middle Lane (Moscow region), as a rule, is carried out already in late March - early April, in the South of Russia - in late February-March. And in the more northern (in the North-West - in the Leningrad region) and cold regions (in the Urals and Siberia), spring pruning of pears is carried out in the second half of April.

When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn

According to most agronomists, the best time to prune fruit trees is early spring, and you need to catch the moment before the start of sap flow... In addition, the shorter the time between pruning and the start of sap flow, the better. In addition to conserving energy, with the beginning of sap flow, the tree's own defense mechanisms "turn on", which means that pathogenic organisms have practically no chance to penetrate into the "tree system".

As for the autumn pruning, it noticeably weakens all trees, their winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, it is believed that only winter-hardy breeds (varieties) can be cut in autumn, which tolerate frost well and are not at all afraid of freezing.

Note! There is a rather controversial opinion that only pome crops (apple trees, pears) can be cut in the fall, but stone fruits (peaches, apricots, plums, cherries) - only in the spring.

In addition, in autumn, trees, on the contrary, suspend all active defense (their own defense mechanisms), while fungal spores fly in myriads. And when frost sets in, the cambium freezes over, and wound healing is difficult.

Thus, it is better to prune the pear in the spring, but they resort to autumn pruning only if you have little time in the spring, or / and the variety is quite frost-resistant.

As for the time, the autumn pruning of the pear can be started when all the leaves of the tree have completely fallen off. In this case, it is important that the air temperature is positive. The fact is that pruning must be completely stopped already at a temperature of -5 degrees, since the wood freezes and becomes brittle and fragile.

How to prune a pear in spring: basic guidelines and tips

Every novice gardener must first understand the structure and structure of his pear tree himself, in order to then better understand the basic rules for pruning it.And, of course, have all the required tools in your summer cottage arsenal. Let's start with them.

Required tools

To perform pear pruning, you will need the following tools and products for treating wounds after pruning:

• regular hand pruner (for thin branches);
• garden knife (for very thin branches and for removing "burrs");
• garden saw-hacksaw (for thick branches);
• secateurs with long handles (for the upper thin branches);
• stepladder (for the convenience of removing the upper branches);
• oil paint (based on drying oil) or just natural drying oil, linseed oil or brilliant green. Alternatively, you can mix iodine and alcohol (1 to 1), or buy a garden variety or a special Rannet paste.

Advice! All tools must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruner must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (or even better, disinfect it before trimming).

The structure of the tree: its structure

Before you start pruning, carefully examine your pear tree, its silhouette. And then figure out which branches clearly look superfluous (in accordance with the rules below) and only then start pruning.

According to the rules, any tree should have a balanced or, more precisely, a crown evenly branched in all directions.

Thus, in order to carry out pruning according to all the rules, you need to know the structure of the tree, so first you should study and understand its structure:

What branches should be removed and pruned: what to prune

First, let's consider which branches are subject to complete removal, and which ones only need to be cut.

ATTENTION! Be sure to read the material to the end and only after that start pruning your pear.

In order not to harm the plant instead of benefit, it is required to strictly follow the rules for pruning pears in spring.

Types of trimming

And first, let's get acquainted with the types of pruning:

• Sanitary - it is used to clean the crown of a pear from diseased, dried and broken branches. It is carried out as needed, regardless of the season.

Interesting! Thinning and shortening more often called ways, not species trimming.

• Thinning - is carried out to rid the tree of unnecessary shoots, which thicken and shade the crown. In this case, the branches are removed completely "on the ring".

Remember! The more light will fall on the branches, so above will be yield... A no thickening and good air circulation inside branches - reliable protection against fungal diseases.

• Shortening (stimulating) - during such pruning, the shoots are not completely cut off "into a ring", but only shortened by a certain "bud" (as a rule, by 3 buds), which enhances the branching of skeletal branches and stimulates fruit formations, as well as for the subordination of the branches (i.e. It is possible to shorten both annual growth and perennial branches).

There are 3 types of shortening: strong (1/3), medium (1/4) and weak (1/5). Strong - for the formation of strong shoots, weak - for laying fruit wood.

• Formative - helps to form a crown of the correct shape and create a strong tree skeleton. It is used for young trees and, as a rule, especially in spring.
• Anti-aging - is used for old trees in order to rejuvenate them. In this case, as a rule, it is carried out in several stages each spring.

Separate paragraphs will be devoted to formative and rejuvenating pruning, and then we will analyze the basic rules for the first three types (or 1 type and 2 methods) of pruning, which are carried out for pears of all ages (especially for old ones).

Sanitary pruning

• First of all, you need to delete all diseased branches... Moreover, they need to be postponed separately, and then destroyed, burned.

Important! BOlives should be trimmed to healthy wood. In this case, it is advisable to do this "On the ring", method "For translation".

• Also all broken and broken branches, which, most likely, are also affected by some kind of disease.

Thinning pruning

• First, you need to get rid of everyone crooked branches (growing through other branches or crossing, "rubbing against each other") and from branches growing inside the crownthat shade good branches.

By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting "into a ring"), or they can be translated "to fruiting" by cutting "to a bud", while it must look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be meaningless).

• Absolutely not needed branches growing at a very sharp angle (ie, the angle of departure is less than 40-45 degrees) and forming the so-called "forks", they are also cut out (due to the load of fruits, the branch can simply crack and a severe wound is formed).

• As you understood from the picture above, in addition, you need cut off all branches growing down (at an obtuse angle).
• Are subject to removal all tops (vertical shoots on skeletal branches, they are also called "wen"), and root suckers.

By the way! Tops can be used for vaccinations.

• You also need to cut all shoots below the first tier (so they don't hang directly above the ground).

In short, pruning all unnecessary and interfering branches, which thicken and shade the crown, and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree.

• Very important leave no competing branches (or thus replace old ones with new ones), cutting them off "For translation".

This is especially true for branches competing with the conductor (main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.

However, thick branches should not be pruned in one year. It is better to first remove most of the branches of the second order, and the next year to get rid of the competitor completely.

Shortening pruning

• For the best branching and stimulating fruit formations need to shorten "Kidney" all continuation branches — one-year increment 1/3 (for the external kidney) or even better for 3 kidneys.

Note! It is not necessary to shorten the already short branches (up to 20-30 cm), on the tips of which there are flower (fruit) buds - they have the whole harvest on them. Long (more than 40-50 cm) growth branches (with growth buds) are subject to pruning. At the same time, it is recommended to cut off the third kidney. When pruning just on the outer bud, the shoot continues to grow in the same direction. And only the third kidney, if left outside, gives a good deviation to the side.

So by trimming the tree, you can change the direction of its branching.Namely, it is necessary that the pear horizontal branches predominated, from vertical you need either get rid of completely, or artificiallyredirect them.

Advice! You don't have to prune all good vertically growing branches. To make them more horizontal, you can bend it, pulling it down with a rope and tie it to a peg in the ground or directly to a tree.

In general, it is believed that in a pear, in principle, it is very important to bend back the branches even more than in an apple tree. The angle must be strictly greater than 45 degrees. If an apple tree can still bear fruits on branches with an angle less than 45 degrees, then a pear does not.

Video: spring pruning pear

How to prune properly: straightforward pruning rules

Now let's look at exactly how to act during pruning: how to hold the pruner and how to directly prune the branches.

Advice! Pruning shear blade should be always below.

Wrong, if the pruner is facing downward with an emphasis, not a blade.

• When you delete branch completely, then trimming is done "On the ring" (most often "for translation") when cut only partthen "Kidney".

Worth knowing! Do not get carried away with pruning "to the kidney", because many small cuts weaken the tree more than a few large ones.

• The essence of kidney pruning is that when you, for example, thin out the crown, it is not at all necessary to cut out the young branch completely.It is much more effective to prune it to the outer bud (facing outward upward, not inward or downward) to change the direction of its growth. In this case, it is necessary to cut in such a way that the top of the cut reaches the top of the kidney, and the base of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney. Then the cut will heal well.

Important! You need to cut on the growth (vegetative) kidney, but not to flower (fruit). See differences above (vegetative less than fruit).

• Cutting "to the ring". The point is that you need to cut branches along the trunk, more precisely, the saw line should run along the bisector between the axis of the trunk and be perpendicular to the branch (along the annular sag);

Important! When pruning old and thick branches on the "ring", adhere to the rule of three cuts (cuts):

1. It is always necessary to cut a branch from the bottom, otherwise it may break under its own weight (weight), due to which a bark seizure forms (similar to a torn burr on a finger). Thus, during the first cut, the branch is cut by 1/3.
2. The next cut is already done from above, while noticeably higher than the first. As a result, the branch is completely cut (otherwise it may break off).
3. As a result, you will have a stump, which will need to be cut down with the third cut, while making it from above exactly "along the ring" (perpendicular to the branch trunk), leaving an annular overlay.

If any burrs remain, they should be trimmed with a sharp garden knife.

This is the only way to get a neat and correct cut.

• Prune branches "On the ring" need to only "for translation", i.e., on a branch or shoot, which will further provide the cut with nutrients and heal it. In this case, the branch (shoot) of the supply should be no thinner than 1/3 of the cut diameter.

Advice! If it (the new supply branch) is thinner, then it is recommended to graft (implant) additional cuttings along the periphery of the cut (at a distance of at least 7 cm from each other). When they take root, they will act as branches of supply, protect and help heal the wound.

• Cropping should be balanced... If pruned heavily, the plant will sprout many shoots and yield low yields. If, on the contrary, it is poorly pruned, then the harvest will be too much and the frequency of fruiting may occur (there will be nothing for the next year). Usually, at once recommended cut no more than 1 / 4-1 / 3 crown, this especially applies to old trees, including when they are "rejuvenated".

Note! It is very important to observe the principle of subordination of branches, that is, all side branches (skeletal branches) obey the guide (central trunk) and should not be higher than it. This also applies to growth on skeletal branches.

Video: how to properly prune a pear in spring

Rules for processing wounds (sections) after trimming

The wounds (sections) remaining after pruning the pear must be properly processed according to all the rules:

• To prevent moisture from entering the cut and rotting (due to a fungal or bacterial infection falling into the cut), it should be covered with a special agent. As a rule, this is used garden var.

Important! According to some gardeners, garden var is more harmful than beneficial. Now a more effective and useful remedy for treating wounds after pruning is a garden paste-putty "Rannet"... However, if there are still frosts (even small ones), then processing with oil paint will be more effectivesince garden var and "RanNet" paste at subzero temperatures can freeze and peel off. Also fit natural drying oil, linseed oil and brilliant green (everyone does not freeze). And you can mix 1 to 1 iodine and alcohol.

• Obviously, the smaller the cut area, the easier it is for the tree to heal the wound. So if a cut with a diameter of up to 2-3 cm, then it is not smeared at all. Have very large cuts only need to be processed at the edges to protect the cambium from drying out.
• It is especially important to cover up large sliceswhich are made "on the ring "on skeletal branches and trunk.

If cancerous ulcers form on them, then it will be very difficult to cure them, which means that you can lose the skeletal branch or, even worse, the entire tree (if on a trunk).

• But when pruning "Kidney" the cut diameter is small enough and does not need processing.

Video: how to properly handle fruit tree cuts

How to prune old and young pears: shaping and rejuvenating pruning

Depending on the age of the trees, the specificity of pruning also differs - the formation of a young pear (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old culture.

Methods (types) of pear shaping: types of crowns

Any trimming should be repelled by the shaping!

However, one must understand that shaping and pruning are different actions. If you can still “freak out” with shaping (go into creativity), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.

The method of shaping depends on the strength of growth of the pear (variety) (which rootstock is weak, medium or vigorous), the ability to branch. It is also important to know what exactly you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully designed tree.

Types of tree crowns

• discharged-tiered;

This is the most popular and simple shaping. Therefore, further, on her example, instructions will be given on the formation of a pear - from planting to 4-5 years of life.

Video: master class on shaping (pruning) by the type of sparse-tiered crown

• tierless;
• cupped (vase-shaped);
• fusiform (Spindle bush);

• flat forms - palmettes and cordons.

However, pear shaping has recently become quite popular. spindle... This is especially true if you have small garden, you need to arrange everything more compact, so that the branches do not interfere. Applicable for dwarf pears (on dwarf rootstocks).

Such cropping is described in great detail and shown in the following video:

Video: the formation of a pear with a spindle during the life of a tree

How to shape a pear: pruning a 1, 2, 3, 4 year old tree

As a rule, a young pear is formed every spring, however, autumn shaping pruning is also allowed.

Note! Which branches to delete, and which ones to leave, exactly how to cut them - everything is detailed and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraph "Cutting rules".

Pruning pears by year in spring (or autumn) is performed as follows (for example discharged-tiered formation):

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted..

• right after spring planting (that is, we already have a 1 or 2-year-old seedling) - the main branch (central conductor) is cut off, or rather the top for 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that side branches form at the tree, otherwise speaking, the first tier was formed.

It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

• for 2 years - the tree has lateral branches, which should be cut to 1/3 of their length (to the outer bud), and only 2-3 of the strongest (ideally - 3), growing horizontally in different directions, should be left, and the rest should be cut into a ring ". You should also trim the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the bifurcation of the first tier (from the uppermost lateral branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. AND do not forget about subordination (trimming should be carried out at the same level).

Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier - 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 90-100 cm is also possible).

• for 3 years - the lateral branches are cut off again, as well as young growth (branches of the second order) on these branches, again by 1/3, "per bud". In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally - 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3.The top of the central trunk is trimmed again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.

The central conductor (main trunk) should be one, therefore all its competitors should be cut “on the ring”.

• for 4 years - the last year of pear formation (if you are forming in 3 tiers). Everything is done similarly to the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut off), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut "into a ring", by transferring to a side branch (3 branch).

Remember to follow the principle subordination of branches, Tier 1 - the longest branches, tier 2 - shorter, tier 3 - the shortest.

• For 5 years and beyond it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also do not forget about sanitary and thinning.

Advice! The optimal height of a tree from which it is convenient to harvest is no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even better 2.5-3 m.

Important! Do not forget in autumn or late winter-early spring whitewash pears (similar to apple trees), especially young people, because they still have a thin bark and can easily burn it. They are bleached to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter, when trees on the south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, and also reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash, but shade on the south side, for example, with a wide board, or wrap it in nonwoven material (spunbond).

Video: pruning a pear 3-4 years after planting

Rejuvenating an old pear

If you have an old pear in your garden that bears little fruit, then rejuvenating pruning can and should be carried out to improve yield and increase its life. However, first you need to make sure that the selected tree is old but healthy, in other words, if it is not sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten its death.

If you have a large enough tree, then get an assistant.

The essence of rejuvenating pruning of pears in spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more fertile ones.

Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees (over 5 years old) should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate; you don't need to cut everything (listed below) in the first year.

If you remove too many branches at once, then a pear, because it's a strong culture, maybe shut up (release a lot of tops). However, everything can be easy fix summer pinching (removal of green young shoots, if they grew "in the wrong place" or went to grow "in the wrong place").

Step-by-step instructions for pruning an old pear in spring:

• First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches are subject to removal.
• Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches, which literally hang above the ground.
• Completely cut "on the ring" all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown (growing inward the crown, crossing, competing, growing with a "fork").

When rejuvenating, the advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut or prune ("bud") a huge number of young thin shoots.

• Get rid of all tops (vertical branches - "wen"), again "on the ring".

Advice! Tops can be used for vaccinations.

• Pinch (cut into 3 "buds") all young shoots, the height of which is more than 40-50 cm.

Remember! It is only necessary to prune "for a ring" by removing "for transfer" (for lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

Video: how to prune a very old pear

You can also watch this detailed video on the principles of anti-aging pruning of old trees:

Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning

By the way! Exists the cardinal way to rejuvenate a very old pear... The tree is cut completely at a height of about 1 meter (the cut is made obliquely).Further, lateral growths (or tops) begin to appear, which in the future will become skeletal branches and make up a new crown.

What to do if the pear grows strongly upward, how to prune it to hold the crown

Obviously, trees cannot be left unattended. It is enough not to cut the pear for a couple of years to make it fly up.

Of course, you can do nothing, but so that you can fine harvest and spend processing pears from diseases and pests, reducing the crown of the tree is simply necessary.

So, first of all, in this situation, you must first conduct thinning pruning, and at the end remove all the highest vertical branches "Translation" to lateral, in other words, to transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.

However, all vertical branches should not be cut out at a time, but you can enhance their fruiting by making small ones above each vegetative (growth) bud notches with a hacksaw, which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will be laid.

You can also shorten all last year's increase, which formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top. Moreover, it is necessary to shorten not by 1/3 of their length, but by 3 kidneys. Then the tree will not run away strongly to the top. Moreover, this must be done every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and every year give a one-year growth to rejuvenate the roots.

Video: pruning a pear growing strongly upward - how to hold the crown

or similar:

Popular mistakes that occur during spring pruning of pears for beginners

The most common mistake when pruning pears and other fruit trees is incorrect pruning. "On the kidney", when pruning is done either below the kidney (in which case it can freeze out), or too large a stump is left (which simply does not heal, it can rot and an infection will surely get through it). Correct cut must be done just above the kidney, wherein bud should be at the level bottom cut.

Likewise for trimming "On the ring"when you leave too much foam, on which completely useless branches then grow, only taking away the strength from the tree. Moreover, the stump itself gradually begins to rot, its bark flakes off. Also, you cannot (it is even more dangerous) cut too low, with the ring removed.

Other common mistakes beginners make when pruning a pear:

• Pruning is carried out in wrong timing... The worst time for pruning is mid-summer, so if you carry out the procedure at this time, you can permanently weaken the tree and slow down its growth. Better then in the fall (after leaf fall), but it is optimal in early spring, before bud break.

• Not cut diseased, dry and broken branches.
• Remains too many extra branches, which shade the crown and do not allow it to blow normally (no air access).
• It is impossible scratch out a hollow "to healthy wood", hammer it with bricks or something else, for example, pour concrete, foam etc. Filling just the opposite, accelerates decay wood trunk and shortens the life of the tree.
• No need for special prune old branches on which mosses and lichens.

It's another matter if young thin branches of trees are covered with moss, then in this case you need a rejuvenating pruning of the entire tree (especially old branches).

Thus, if you annually carry out high-quality spring pruning of pears according to all the rules, then the tree will definitely reward you with a large number of delicious fruits. After all, only a healthy tree with a properly formed crown can give stable yields.

Of course, when you read and see diagrams, pictures, then everything seems simple and easy. But for some reason, when you approach your tree, everything becomes incomprehensible.

Well, that's okay. The main thing - no need to be afraid and just practice more often, because everything comes with experience.

In addition, pruning is, in a sense, a creative process: after all, the same branch (skeletal) can be pruned in different ways.

Advice! Alternatively, you can print yourself a cheat sheet with all the schemes and cropping rules.

Video: how to prune a pear in spring